Moray bouldering update 2020-21

As well as Strathnairn, the crags of Moray have been getting some attention! Most of these are at the usual coastal sandstone crags but some interest has recently flared up further inland.

Starting with Cummingston, Benjy Wilcock has added a short power problem, Mephitidae (6A+) on skunk walls which features both crimps and slopers from either side of the spectrum! On top of this he also added an eliminate dyno variation, Mephitidyno (6B) which bypassed the sloper by boosting straight up to the jug.

I’ve also been getting regular sessions down at Cummingston over the winter and have added a few new things. Firstly was a new linkup Wax and Wane (7B+), in the cave by climbing the compression prow Ginger Rides Again into the second half of the traverse Timezones. A bit powerful then pumpy. Secondly is a pure hand jamming roof crack Autumn Crack (7A+). This problem gets on the wideboys train and features steep gymnastic climbing at the back of the main cave. Defo one for good connies. Lastly was a new eliminate on Masonic Finger Shake named Masonic Move (7A) which blasts straight from the start holds to the finishing rail.

At the beauty spot of Primrose Bay, Dave Douglas has added Blue in the Face (7A+) by the paddling pool bloc. This problem starts as for Blue Fish Prow LH but finishes up the obvious crack without using the arete. I’ve also climbed the cave lip left of Amatuer Acrobatics which has become Coastess (7C). This problem compresses the lip and crack from a jump start (build a cairn if pebble landing is low) and finishes up the line of the vague flake. As well as this I’ve added Butternut (7A+/7B), a compression endurance problem linking Three Wise Men into Amatuer Acrobatics.

Local legend Danny Woodward returned to Moray for a brief trip back and upon strolling along  the familiar coastal walks past Hopeman, a new bouldering crag sprung from the ground! Now known as Daisy Rock, the crag features highball walls made from a good sandstone – some Reiff vibes going on. Although it does have a bouldery landing. Danny picked off some of the easier lines in a highball/solo style then called it the troops which allowed the landings to be padded out safely. After a good sesh most of the lines were climbed and all around the F4-6B range. The highlights of the day were Otter’s Pocket (5) and Undercut (5+). Still more lines to go!

Although a while back in 2019, Graham Tyldesley, whilst wandering through the granite tors of Ben Rinnes found a couple of great looking problems. On his return trip he established The Beehive (6C+), which climbs up the centre of a sheen granite face which features powerful slopey moves to start then a highball crimpy finish. Aswell as this, he added The Queen (6C) which heads up the centre of the face left of The Beehive which is also worthwhile. Despite being highball the problems have flat grassy landing. Many more projects up there for anyone willing to walk up with a pad!

Down by the Findhorn Gorge just south of Forres, a few new problems have been added on the Tomb over the last winter season. First I added Sabretooth (maybe 7B+), a shouldery two move problem which features a downwards facing tooth which can be thumb-spragged then slaps to a precise sloping slot. Another was a power endurance linkup, Blowback (7C), which climbs Zima into Tombstone. As well this, a passing Thom Davies gave the crag classic Woodstock (7B) its first repeat in fine style and confirmed the grade.

Written by Ted Collins, July 2021

The Moray bouldering guide, written by Ted, can be downloaded here.

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